Frequently Asked Questions
Both Inu and Ken simply mean 'dog' in Japanese and are therefore interchangeable or can even be omitted entirely.
Yes. Shibas shed very little year-round, but twice a year they will blow coat. This means that their entire undercoat will seem to all fall out at the same time as they prepare for a warm summer or a cold winter. They may blow from their entire body evenly, or it may go from one section to another. The whole process usually takes a week or two, but can be improved through the use of a good grooming brush. Even if you live in a temperate climate, your Shiba will blow coat, it just won't be as bad as it is for those in more extreme climates.
Show me!
As a breed in general, yes. From my experience, Shibas actually do best when they have another furry friend around, whether it be another Shiba, a cat, or even a big dog. It's easiest when the other animal(s) is already there, but once your Shiba is used to other animals, more additions shouldn't pose a problem. Some things to keep in mind:
Shibas were bred to hunt, so a rabbit or any other very small, fast-moving creature might not be the best idea for a new addition.
Some people have reported having aggression problems with having two of the same sex of Shiba.
The most important thing to remember is that each dog is an individual... no one can predict how your Shiba will handle new additions better than you can and if you're looking to add a Shiba to a household with other animals, no one can answer your questions better than the breeder.
As a breed in general, yes. If you already have children and are hoping to add a Shiba pup to your home, the pup should have no problem adjusting to a life with 'littermates'. Be sure to consult the breeder, and make sure you teach your children how to handle your Shiba with care.
If you have a Shiba and are planning on having children, you just need to make sure you prepare your Shiba for the new baby. Your Shiba should be 'child-proofed' by you. This means taking time to *gently* pull ears, tails, paws, lips, etc. and touch your Shiba in places where children will be apt to grab without thinking. Only do this for short periods of time each day, and praise your Shiba while doing so, rewarding him with a treat at the end. You will know your Shiba is ready to interact with children when none of your grabs or touches elicit an unhappy response.
As a breed in general, no. Shibas are very cat-like in that they will not enjoy going outdoors in the rain, do not particularly like baths, and although they are spectacular swimmers, would highly prefer not to swim. However, I have had several Shibas who have enjoyed at least getting their feet wet and/or splashing around in shallow streams, puddles, or the breaking waves at the beach. Then again, I have heard of other Shibas who will refuse to go out even to potty if it's merely sprinkling. Sometimes these two preferences will even occur in the same dog! Shiba thinks to itself "getting wet on my own terms for my own fun is ok, but rain? no thanks!" Despite all their water preferences, most Shibas will tolerate their baths just fine despite not liking them.
All in all, while you can get your Shiba to be more water-friendly through steady exposure and encouragement as it grows up, if you're looking for a dog to take out on a lake and retrieve balls from the water all day, I would say this is definitely not the breed for you.
**If you have a pool, you should make sure your Shiba knows how to get out of it, should he ever fall in. You can do this by putting him in the pool and going to the point of exit and calling him. Sometimes you'll need to walk along the side of the pool with him for him to get the idea initially. Then place him increasingly further away from the exit area and from varying spots in the pool so that you're sure he'll find his way out from wherever he may fall in. If your Shiba is still a pup, you may want to suit-up and only use short distances until you're sure he can make it from one end of the pool to the other, and never leave him unattended near the pool until you're absolutely sure that he can swim far enough to get himself out and that he definitely knows where to get himself out. When you're done with your pool escape training sessions, be sure to reward him with praise, a treat, and a nice towel rub-down.
Shibas in the US have not been studied enough to conclusively state any common health problems. Some health concerns that are being investigated to determine the rate of occurrence are:
Hip Dysplasia-- hereditary disease that, when severe, can cause crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the hips; most common in large breeds
Patellar Luxation-- hereditary disease causing the kneecap to pop out of place resulting in sporadic pain in mild cases and potential lameness and arthritis for more severe cases; most common in toy breeds
Eye Disorders-- several eye disorders are being studied to determine the rate of occurrence in the breed. These include: Entropion/Ectropion, a condition affecting the eyelid causing the lashes to damage the cornea; Glaucoma, a condition causing vision problems from intraocular pressure; Juvenile Cataracts, a condition leading to vision impairment or even blindness; Microphthalmia, a condition causing the eyeball to be abnormally small; Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA), a condition that encompasses several genetic eye disorders resulting in complete blindess.
Allergies-- ranging from mild to severe as a result of food, pollen, insect stings, or even immunizations
Since the Shiba is a small-breed dog, the average life expectancy is about 15 years. Unfortunately, some Shibas meet an untimely end by running in front of cars, so be sure to always keep your Shiba in a secured environment or on a leash.
There are two answers to this question. First: the cream coloring is more closely associated with the Kishu, not the Shiba. Cream Shibas are most likely a result of recessive genes leftover from the interbreeding between the Shiba and the Kishu to save the breed after WWII (see Breed History). As such, the AKC does not see them as being pure. Second: AKC views the existence of urijiro as the defining characteristic of the Shiba. Since Urijiro can not bee seen on the cream Shibas, even though it may be genetically present, they are automatically disqualified.
Urijiro is the white, cream, or buff markings found on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, inside the ears, on the underjaw and upper throat, inside of the legs, on the abdomen, around the vent and the ventral side of the tail of Shibas. On red Shibas, it is commonly on the throat, forechest, and chest whereas on blacks and sesames it is commonly a triangular mark on both sides of the forechest. Show me!
Shibas are born with dewclaws. Whether your puppy will have dewclaws depends on whether your breeder has decided to have them removed or not. If you are pre-ordering your pup, you might be able to choose if your pup's dewclaws are removed or not. Dewclaws should only be removed within the first three days of life to avoid excessive bleeding, so if your pup is older when you reserve/get them and they have their dewclaws intact, they will (or at least should) stay that way. We remove our pups' dewclaws by default. If you are pre-ordering and prefer to leave them intact, please notify us.
Your puppy's toenails have already been clipped weekly since he was born, so there's no need to hold off on clipping them. You should handle your pup's paws often so he is used to you touching them. If your puppy has had their dewclaws removed, there will be 4 nails to clip on each paw; If not, there will be five. For clear toenails, you can easily see where the pink of the quick ends and the toenail which can be cut begins. It is more difficult to tell where to cut on dark-colored nails, so you should take off less at a time. You can roughly estimate where to cut by basing off clear nails, if your pup has any. Just remember, if you cut the quick, it will not only hurt your pup, but he can bleed profusely. I recommend keeping quick-stop on hand, or if you're uncomfortable doing the trimming, ask a professional groomer to do it or even your vet.
Heartgard can be given as soon as he has been tested for existing heartworm infection. Typically this is done at 6-8 weeks of age. Once the results have come back negative, it is safe to begin administering Heartgard Plus once a month.
Frontline can be applied starting at 8 weeks of age, regardless of weight, as long as the appropriate weight class is purchased. (eg: Dogs up to 25 lbs.)
All of our puppies receive their first dose of both Heartgard and Frontline before going to their new homes.
Absolutely. Try to avoid touching the area of application while it's still oily, and wash your hands after playing, especially before eating, etc., but as long as you take these simple precautions, there's no reason to let the frontline interfere with your normal play.
We see this question a lot and each time we are forced to ask another question before providing an answer. So in this instance, we will provide both answers.
-- If your question is can I put frontline that is unopened, but leftover from a previous pet, on my puppy... the answer is maybe. IF the frontline you currently have is for the correct weight class for your puppy AND if the frontline is not expired, you may use your leftover frontline for your new puppy. (Frontline Plus is available in four dosing sizes: up to 22 lbs., 23 to 44 lbs., 45 to 88 lbs., and 89 to 132 lbs.) However: If your frontline is expired, it will not provide protection for your pup; If your frontline is for a higher weight class than your pup, you will be unable to give the correct dosage which will result in either no protection from giving too little, or skin irritation and other side effects from giving too much. Remember that your new pup has very sensitive skin and Frontline does contain chemicals that can be dangerous in the wrong dosage.
-- If your question is can I use leftover frontline that has already been opened, or that I used half of the dispenser on another pet, or another similar situation, the answer is no. Frontline that has been left open should be assumed to be bad since it has been exposed to the air and such for a length of time. Aside from that, an open dispenser has an unknown dosage of Frontline in it. You will be unable to give the correct dosage which will result in either no protection from giving too little, or skin irritation and other side effects from giving too much. Remember that your new pup has very sensitive skin and Frontline does contain chemicals that can be dangerous in the wrong dosage.
Most dogs enjoy the taste of Heartgard and it can be used as a reward for doing simple tricks. If this doesn't work with your Shiba, however, Heartgard can be broken up and mixed into a small amount of food as long as you make sure your dog eats all of the food. Another thing you can try, which I use to get my Shibas to take pills, is to take a slice of cheese and microwave it enough so that it's mushy and moldable but not melted and form a cheese ball around the Heartgard or pill. Once it has cooled, you can feed it to your dog as a treat.
Honestly, there's not much you can do. The extra dose *shouldn't* hurt your dog, although we certainly wouldn't recommend making extra doses a regular occurrence. Try to keep an eye out for any negative side effects that may be occurring due to the extra dose. Things to look out for include: vomiting, diarrhea, excessive panting, excessive thirst, rapid heart beat, shivering, weakness, facial swelling, hives, shock, and seizures. If any of these things occur, or even if you're just worried, call your vet! That's what your vet is there for. To avoid having your dog get extra doses, consider signing up for email reminders. You can sign up directly through HeartGard or use a generic reminder service like Pet Meds Reminder Service.
This answer really depends on what type of protection you're looking for. Therefore, we have put together a guide that will show you the benefits of the different parasite prevention products on the market. Please keep in mind that you should always consult your vet about what is best for your dog and what type of protection is necessary for your area. Parasite Guide.
The best time to de-worm your pup will be mostly dependant on when is good for you. It is possible that your pup will have a slightly upset stomach from the de-wormer, since he'll probably be passing dead worms, so you should give it to him at a time when you'll be around and able to take him out several times over the next few hours if he needs to go. Therefore, bed time is probably not the best choice for dosing. Also, most de-worming is done in a series of doses at regular intervals of time, so that would limit your ability to choose a 'best time' for giving the doses. As to whether you should de-worm in conjunction with a meal, it will probably be up to your pup. For example, your puppy may not want to eat right after getting his worming dose. Check with your vet to see what they recommend about spacing worming doses and feeding times.
Unless it has been several days of your Shiba not eating at all, I wouldn't worry about it. It could just be that you are giving him too much food for his activity level. Sometimes my Shibas will finish their two-cup bowls of food over the course of one day, and sometimes it won't all be gone until the second or third day. Try to figure out if perhaps your Shiba isn't getting as much exercise as normal, or maybe is getting too many treats during the day. If neither of these seem to be the case, then it may just be that your Shiba isn't inclined to eat as much as the bag recommends. If your Shiba isn't eating at all, or if you're worried for any reason, go ahead and call your vet. The worst that can happen is that they tell you there's nothing to worry about.
**If your Shiba is still a puppy and has not eaten, even for just one day, call your vet
This is a long answer, as there are many different ingredients that can be found in dog foods. If you would like to be able to see a list of common ingredients and what those ingredients actually mean, please refer to our Dog Food Ingredient Chart.
In order for us to put your puppy on reserve, you must have completed the application process and sent us your deposit.
The application is intended to protect both you and the puppy. We want to ensure that one of our pups will be a great fit to you and your lifestyle and that therefore, you will provide a long, healthy, and happy life to our pup.
Like the application, the Breeder-Buyer Contract is designed to protect both you and the puppy. The Contract, however, provides more complete protection by explicitly delineating the expectations we have for the care of our pups and the guarantees we provide about the pup. For more information on our expectations and guarantees, see our Purchasing A Puppy page.
The puppy has been permanently identified by microchip prior to leaving with Avid FreindChip, an animal recovery organization. The puppy has also received his first set of immunizations, and his first dose of both Heartgard Plus and Frontline Plus. Your puppy comes with his health and immunization records and recommended diet and care instructions. You will also receive: puppy pee pad, gallon bag of puppy food, can of wet food, Avid FriendChip registration form, and rebate forms for Frontline and Heartgard.
Many red and sesame Shiba pups are born with black markings in odd spots, but most commonly on the face and/or chest. The majority of the dark fur will be gone by the time the pup is ready to come home at 8 weeks. If it's not gone by then, that doesn't mean it still won't go away, however. Shibas' coats can continue changing until they reach maturity (around 8 months) and will also change to become lighter or darker depending on the season.
©2008-2010 SuwanneeSunsetShibas.com
